Local Hero - the Abruzzo Club

When friends visit us in Melbourne and want to eat Italian, we steer them away from Lygon Street, as they generally suggest, and take them to the Abruzzo Club in East Brunswick. It's a gem. We like it so much that we held our wedding reception there! It may not have the glitz and newness of its larger sister in Epping but it has the heart and soul of an old-style Italian restaurant and serves exceptionally good Italian food with an Abruzzese influence.

The 'Gran Sasso Restaurant' at the Abruzzo Club is one of our favourite local restaurants and we enjoyed a very fine meal there last Tuesday. One dish we always order when we go there is the home-made gnocchi. It's the best in Melbourne. Yes, that's a big call but I stand by it. Light and fluffy, it's like eating clouds. I first tasted their gnocchi when I pinched a piece off my then three year old niece's plate. An ignoble action to be sure but it was the start of a love affair that hasn't ended yet.

A close up picture to show the deliciousness of the gnocchi!

The lady who used to make the gnocchi retired nearly two years ago. Apparently she had arms of steel. She would come in weekly and make a huge batch for the restaurant. We only found out because we had a run of visits to the restaurant in which every time we tried to order it we were told 'they had run out'. Then one day a waiter let it slip that the gnocchi maker had retired. We were nervous. When would it return? Would it be as good? Finally it returned and while I have to say while there is a slight difference in the quality, it's still good, damned good. It's still the best.

On Tuesday we shared an entree serve of the gnocchi with napoli sauce. The gnocchi were as light as ever, covered in rich and smooth sauce that was without any acidity. A great start to the meal.

Just so you understand how delicious the gnocchi is - it's all gone

For my main meal I ordered the Coniglio, rabbit braised in a white wine sauce served with steamed broccolini, potatoes and polenta. This was a generous serve of rabbit covered in a vegetable reduction. It was delicious and flavoursome, a reduction of finely chopped vegetables that was a perfect complement to the rabbit, which itself was tender although surprisingly the meat got a bit chewier closer to the bone. I enjoyed this dish very much.

Coniglio

There's always selection of specials available at the Abruzzo Club. How many will depend on the day you dine there. As we were there early on in the week there was just a couple and S. chose one of these, the rib-eye steak cooked medium rare. It came out with the standard range of vegetables, including the delicious baked potatoes. The steak was cooked to perfection with the monster piece of rib eye tender and succulent, helped no doubt by having the bone left in.

Rib-eye steak

We really enjoyed our meal, as always, and will be back again in the near future. The outside of the Abruzzo Club itself is unattractive, a squat non-descript two storey building constructed some in 1970s (I think). However do step inside, you won't be disappointed. There is a moderate wine list, mostly from the Taylor Ferguson range and some Italian wines. The menu has recently been simplified and I am a little bit disappointed by this as some of my favourite dishes, such as the spatchcock, have gone but the quality of the food has not suffered in anyway. The restaurant offers authentic and very good quality Italian dishes that you should be finding on Lygon Street, Carlton, but won't.

The Gran Sasso Restaurant is often host to large family gatherings although you are just as likely to find a solitaire diner there being attended to by one of the friendly waiting staff. If Aldo is working he is sure to amuse the kids with his range of tricks and funny noises. I haven't seen him for while though, I hope he hasn't retired.

Entree size gnocchi with napoli sauce $18.90

Coniglio $30

Rib-eye steak $28.50

Abruzzo Club
377 Lygon Street, East Brunswick
9387 5955

A birthday lunch at Hellenic Republic

Hellenic Republic was the setting for a special birthday in October last year, so yes I've posted this review quite a while after but nonetheless, the memories of the wonderful food we had there are still strong.

It almost didn't happen, as somehow the booking made in August was not there when we went to confirm a couple of days before (it's interesting to note from other reviews that some others have had booking issues too). Quite a frustrating experience when a big group of local and interstate guests are involved and alternative arrangements have to be made at short notice. However, when a large booking cancelled a table was found for us. A big thank you goes out to The Abruzzo Club for acting as an alternative venue, just in case Hellenic Republic didn't come through.

We've been to Hellenic Republic several times now for both breakfast and lunch, and everytime we have been impressed with both the food and the service. It's a loud, rambunctious venue where you can sit back, relax and have fun catching up with family and friends. Special dietary requests are accommodated without hesitation and it's a great spot for families with children. For breakfasts we have ordered from the a la carte menu and lunches have been from the Trapezi menu, the group menu. Overall, the Trapezi menu has never really disappointed us and it certainly is value for money.

So for the birthday lunch it was the Trapezi menu that we had. Our meal began with some dips, which were served with pita bread, and the kefalograviera with peppered figs, which is one of my favourite dishes from Hellenic Republic. A squeaky and salty cheese that is fantastically off-set by the sweet but not cloying figs. The recipe for the peppered figs can be found here.

Kefalograviera with peppered figs & Melizanosalata - eggplant dip, dressed with red wine onions

Our dips included the melizanosalata (pictured above) and taramosalata (suprisingly I didn't take a photo for a dish I like so much). Suspend whatever understanding of taramosalata you have from the garish, salty and pink stuff you find in supermarkets. This taramosalata is white, smooth and understated, with a depth of flavour that doesn't rely on salt. It's an eye-opener. You will never want to purchase the supermarket product again after you try this.

The flavour of the selection of Hellenic style cured meats (pictured above) was delicious and the colour vibrant and inviting. Again, the flavour was understated and not reliant on salt as most supermarket meats are.

Grilled fish of the day - Swordfish

On previous occasions when we've had the trapezi menu the grilled fish has been salmon. On this occasion it was, to my delight, swordfish. For whatever reasons I am unable to successfully cook swordfish at home. The fillets we were presented with were perfectly chargrilled, firm and succulent, and simply flavoured with salt, pepper, red onion and parsley so that the flavour of the fish shone through.

Cypriot grain salad - freekah, coriander, almonds, lentils and yoghurt

Although I didn't try this salad (I had requested a gluten free meal) it was, apparently, delicious. It was described to me as being 'full of herbs that provided a hit of freshness in the mouth, with a wonderful, course texture'. The recipe has been sourced and will be provided in a later blog!

Htapodi salata - pickled octupus, shaved fennel, confit potatoes

The Htapodi salata was delicious. A perfect balance of sharp and salty flavours and soft and chewy texture in the mouth.

Oh dear, the roasted carrots. I've forgotten their correct name. They were delicious, seasoned with a little fennel, dill and served on yoghurt.


OK. So these look fabulous, but for my mind they were a big disappointment (but the only one on the day). Scallops completely drowned in a pea sauce that did nothing to enhance their flavour, topped with breadcrumbs and bacon. Mine were absent the bread crumbs, for reasons of fructan intolerance, and looked quite sad, so I won't upload the photograph. What is pictured is what everyone else received. S assures me they were tasty but I'm not sure that the breadcrumbs would have made that much of a difference.


When the plates of lamb and chicken come out that means the small plates are over and the main meal has begun. I always eagerly anticipate this part of the meal but am usually full by the time it arrives. The meats are spit roasted in an open area towards the back of the building, visible through a window. The plates arrived with lemon cheeks to be squeezed over the meat, which was tender, succulent and flavoursome with plenty of herbs.

Maroulosalata and Tzatziki

The much maligned iceberg lettuce is the feature leaf of the maroulosalata, which is basically a lettuce salad jazzed up with spring onions, dill and oregano. I quite like it and think that it makes a flavoursome, simple accompaniment to the spit roasted meats.

Tiganites patates - hand cut potatoes cooked in olive oil with oregano

The chips are delicious, simply flavoured with oregano and salt. My only complaint is that we were given only two bowls, and with children present it simply wasn't enough.

Loukoumathes

To be quite honest by the time the loukoumathes arrived I was quite full and my capacity to fully appreciate them was long gone, and we still had cake to come. From what I recall on other occasions, the loukoumathes (greek doughnuts) are light and crisp and topped with honey and walnuts. Given that they were all eventually eaten, I can only assume that they must be good!

We had a wonderful birthday lunch with friends at Hellenic Republic and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to people. The service was friendly and attentive on the day we visited. Every request was attended to. The service staff even had a chat to us about where we got the birthday cake from. Besides the booking mix-up, my other complaint would be about the steep 'cakage' charge - $4.00 per head. It really is a bit over-the-top.

The mention of George Calombaris' name or his restaurants seems to induce an immediate and quite intense response in people - they either love or loathe him and his restaurants. Personally, I'm in the former camp. I'm a big fan of both Press Club and Hellenic Republic, and I'm not quite sure why people don't like him or his food. Perhaps he's over-exposed. Perhaps there's still a bit of the old tall poppy syndrome at play, perhaps it's because he's a Greek-Cypriot Australian from Chadstone made good. Perhaps they just don't like his food. When I question people about the basis of their dislike most are unable to articulate it. So who knows what is going on really. I think his restaurants are fabulous.

Trapezi Menu
$58 per person

Hellenic Republic
434 Lygon Street
East Brunswick
9381 1222

No. 96: A new era...Breakfast at Milkwood

The Route 96 tram terminus in East Brunswick sits at an intersection that has been 'deep cool' in waiting. Over the years, a motley collection of shops have stood either vacant or variously housed an eclectic assortment of businesses: the silver top taxi club, 'psychic rainbow', the museum of experimental art, a pizza shop and a tattoo parlour. It always looked a little forlorn and forgotten to me when I passed through on the 508 bus. But that was many years ago and times have changed. There are now three cafes, the Lomond Hotel seems busier than ever and 3RRR sits on the corner of Blyth and Nicholson Streets. The renaissance has begun in earnest.

Milkwood sits directly across from this terminus. It was with some excitement that I went there last Sunday for breakfast, as S. has been riding his bike over to the Route 96 of a morning and grabbing a coffee (and occasionally a cake) at Milkwood before jumping on the tram to go to work. He's been singing its praises for weeks now.

First, let me get out the way the things that I didn't like, because there's actually a lot to like about Milkwood:

- My knife and fork being set back to front. Etiquette dictates a correct way to set tables and position the cutlery. I wish this was adhered to more regularly.

- A hair in my food.

- The noise levels. The white-washed brick walls look fab. But with no sound insulation, a high ceiling and wood floors the noise level made it difficult to hear others.

- Snow pea shoots used to garnish my dish. Why do people persist in using these? They're fibrous, chewy and tasteless. And so...90s.

Now, to what I did like - the food. I had a special, smashed peas & broad beans with mint & pecorino on sourdough with poached eggs. What a wonderful spring breakfast dish! So flavoursome and fresh, I could simply have had the peas, broad beans and mint mixture on toast and I would have been happy. I wanted more, I wanted to keep eating it and eating it, rapturous in its simplicity and flavour. The poached eggs had rich, golden yolks. Perhaps they could have been a little more runny, but this is a small quibble.

S. had the ricotta pancakes with coconut, banana & honey yoghurt. These were served as a generous stack of three, large and flecked with toasted coconut. The yoghurt provided a tangy contrast to the fluffy, light pancakes and the sweetness provided by the honey and bananas.

The service at Milkwood was attentive and friendly. Coffee orders were taken the moment we sat down (the coffee used is Coffee Supreme). A query from me about their gluten-free bread was followed up immediately and I was informed that it was an artisan bread. In a conversation after our meal with another staff member, querying whether we had enjoyed it, we were told that it came from Fatto a Mano on Gertrude Street, Collingwood. It was delicious. I'll be visiting this bakery sometime in the coming week!

Despite the noise, the space at Milkwood is bright and airy. It is a small space and can get busy on the weekend (I think I counted six tables inside, some bench space and a couple of tables outside). The food makes the most of seasonal produce in a very small kitchen. The staff are welcoming and service is attentive. Importantly for me, they offer gluten-free options so I can enjoy a wheat-free meal or sweet treat. It is a very enjoyable cafe in which to enjoy breakfast or lunch, or grab a coffee and snack before getting on the tram to the city.

If you go, do the right thing and catch the tram there. Parking is difficult in the area. And don't forget that the Route 96 is one of National Geographic's Top 10 tram journeys of the world. We will definitely be going back to try some more of their breakfast offerings.

Smashed peas & broad beans with mint & pecorino on sourdough with poached eggs - $15

Ricotta pancakes with coconut, bananas & honey yoghurt - $13.50

Coffee - $3.20

Milkwood

120 Nicholson Street

East Brunswick
9380 4062

While you see a chance, take it...breakfast at Pope Joan

It almost didn't happen, for a couple of reasons. First, we weren't intending to go to Pope Joan for breakfast. We were driving down Nicholson Street on our way to somewhere else when we passed by and saw there was only one table occupied. One table occupied in the hottest cafe to open in the last 12 months. Ok, I exaggerate. There were two tables occupied and that was it.

Second, there were milk crates out the front. Bloody milk crates! I'm not sure when it became acceptable to expect people to sit on milk crates and pay for their meals, but I'm not having any of that designer feral palaver. I used milk crates for furniture when I was a poor student. I'm not paying to eat on them now I'm earning a decent income (and hence I will not go to 'A Minor Place' while milk crates continue to be used for seating).

On closer inspection it was clear that the milk crates were being used for tables, and topped with 'marble', no less. Well, as long as I don't have to subject my delicate derriere to such indignity that's ok then.

Now, enough of the ranting and to the food.

S. had the Corned beef bubble and squeak with celeriac remoulade, toast and fried egg. He said "...inside the beautifully crumbed croquette, the filling was soft, salty and tender. It contained pumpkin, carrot, potato and (he thinks) parsnip. The creamy remoulade tempered the saltiness nicely". The egg and toast were, of course, delicious.

Excited to see a rice dish on the menu, I ordered the kedgeree. I must say I thought it was slightly lacklustre. While the high quality of the ingredients was apparent, it didn't have the spicy 'bang' I was looking for. The rice was generously flecked with salmon and mackerel and topped with creme fraiche, fried onion and mint. Mixed into the dish the mint lifted the dish but not enough to give it the 'wow' factor I was looking for.

'Where's the egg?' I wondered. A kedgeree should have boiled egg. I'm sure it said 'egg' on the menu, but maybe not. Bad note taking. Mea culpa.

The hummingbird cake was a treat to behold. The pale lemon icing provided the perfect backdrop for the light green pistachios and the toasted coconut to dance upon. Moist as a good hummingbird cake should be but not stodgy as they sometimes can be, the fruit flavours were perfectly balanced and not overpowered by a sugary sweetness. One of the best hummingbird cakes we have ever eaten, with this category of cake being a special interest of S.

The soft chocolate tart was superb. It had a mild bitter chocolate taste, was sweet but not cloying and the consistency of a brownie. However, it wasn't heavy or stodgy as brownies can sometimes be, it was light and satisfying with just enough 'goo' in the middle to make it moist and a little bit chewy. It was, and this is a big call, the best chocolate cake/tart I have ever had. Yes indeed. I'll stand by that statement. It was perfect.

Pope Joan we thought you were over-hyped but now we love you. With one blip to report (being the kedgeree) we can't find much else to fault. The service was attentive and friendly, the British-Anglo focussed breakfast menu evoked comforting memories of childhood and the coffee was good. The cakes were a standout. The quality of the ingredients is high and we spied a veggie garden down the back. Ample seating indoor and outdoor is available. Enough has been said about its industrial setting so I will say no more. We will definitely be going back.

Kedgeree - $17

Corned beef bubble & squeak - $17

Coffee - $3.50

Cakes - $4.50 to $5.50

Pope Joan
77-79 Nicholson Street
East Brunswick
T: 9388 8858